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RANAMAL JETHANAND KHATRI (DATE OF BIRTH - 16.05.1969)

Near Panch Batti Circle, Roy Colony, Barmer, Rajasthan - 344001

HONOURS & AWARDS

  • 1992 District level award
  • 1992 National excellency certificate
  • 1995 Honoured by State Govt.
  • 2001 Honoured by textile Minister of India (Shri Kashi Ram Rana alongwith certificate
  • 2005 Forhex award by His honorable Vice President of India Shri Bheron Singh Sekhawat
  • 2007 State level independence day festival in Jodhpur by Chief Minister Smt. Vasundhara ji & Governor Honourable Ansumal Singh Gayakwad
  • 2010 Kalla-nidhi Award in Surajkund mella by Chief Minister Haryana

Acquired first place award (Best selling prize) by taking part in hat – bazar Exhibition competition in various metropolis cities.

Got opportunities for going foreign but couldn’t go because of pass-port. At present pass port has been prepared.

Basically our family moved away from the town namely Thatta (Baluchistan) of united India (country before partition) and then situated at Bijorai of Marwad, which was a small town under the kingdom of Jodhpur where they were doing coloring printing jobs and agriculture. However after 4-5 generations due to scarcity of water they had shifted to Khairpur Dehaki province under the kingdom of Bhawalpur state. Khairpur Dehaki was a center of princes of landlords. Our ancestors had given full benefits to the princes and landlords for their art. While earning their livelihood, they brought the art of "AJRAKH" printing to the peak.

Unfortunately during partition, our family had left Bhagalpur and situated at Barmer of Rajasthan. Here due to scarcity of water they were doing hard work of printing and consequently earning good.

As there was a work is home, I too, was sharing the work of my grandmother since the age of 10-12 years. In the age of 14, I learnt to print one side AJRAKH. One day my father observed my work and thought that if I can print single side AJRAKH printing, why I can not print two sides. I side give me this job and I will try my best. Then in the age of 14, in the year 1983, I had printed two sides AJRAKH. My father checked it keeping in front of sunlight and found that there was not even a sharp difference as that of the needle point. Father told grandmother that their Rana will make a name in the field of coloring and printing line. Thereafter I also learnt block printing under the supervision of my father and also I acquired sharp knowledge of natural colors.

In the year 1990, under the supervision of my father, I had tried to make two different colors, AJRAKH on two sides of cloth and achieved 100% success. On that Ajrakh I got an award of National Excellency in 1992.

Barmer and Jaisalmer being excursion centers of world, apart from tourist of many parts of India, the tourists from foreign countries were also visiting. Bed sheets of Barmer printing as well as lungi (wearing style, presently in South India) were most favorite items among tourists. Looking into this popularity and good sale, sheets, from which we got encouraging results.

My favourable item is Ajrakh Bed sheet for which I have been selected for National Award for the item "AJARAKH BED SHEET". The word Ajrakh has been given by foreign traders in their language i.e.Arabi and pasto. In 16-17 century the word was called in the word was celled in the name of "AJRAKH" at Nagar Thatha in Baluchistan State. At present it is called AJARAKLH or AJRAKH in Marwari language.

The word "AJARAKH" defines with sky, space and universe. As stars, planets and some groups of stars are in the sky so are the designs in Ajrakh like these stars and planets. Their back- ground always remains traditionally blue in colors. The Sindhi Musalman likes this print very much. We begin to prepare the Meenakari Ajrakh concluding the two colors method. Our ancestors and their contemporary Artisans used to say that price of that Ajrakh was easy equal to the price of one tola gold. It was difficult to supply the items demanded.

Artisans were in great number. They belonged to Brahmkhyatriya Hindu Khatri; Muslim Khatri and Chhipa Communities. They worked dying and printing art. Their main source of income was dying, printing and farming. They used the natural colors at that time. They work whole heartedly. They made items less in number but their quality was so attractive that everyone owned them without demand.

In old time traders of Europe and central East Asians entered India through Kabul, Kandahar, Chaman and Peshawar to face Indian Art and Craft. They became very happy to see the Indian Art and Craft. At that time the work of dying and printing was dons at manufacture level. Several designs patterns and colors were used in manufacturing the item at large scale. Some time the experts traders found the printing feeling the express universe in one of printing in the sun –light, so they gave the name AJRAKH in Sindhi. They said its back ground is blue and stars and planets are twinkling. They are representing the round planets. These clothe were really "AJARAKH ". This information was told to me several time by my parents and parents which I had written it earlier. I talked to the people going to Pakistan or coming from there about the natural colors and Ajrakh, which I trying my best to distribute the information to the hestile engaged in dying and printing art so that the Art remain alive in ensuing time Ajrakh has always remained rare because it can be used reversibly as it was used by Sindhi, Muslim as lungi, gamachha and turban. It is not the work of every artisan only expert artisan can have Ajrakh print. Our family adopted this dying and printing art as a source of income and hobby. We kept this art alive struggling in Kherpur (Pakistan) before independence and now in Barmer, I Ranamal Jethanand ji Khatri learnt Ajrakh dying and printing from my grandparents and parents. I represented their stories in design on the Ajrakh dying and printing art.

We people make Ajrakh using natural colors and minerals in dying and printing process on Ajrakh. Here is its manufacturing process-

MATERIAL USED IN THE PROCESS

Grey and mercerized cloth put the cloth in the water, castor oil, soda, khara oil (Jambha).Take all these four things in equal quantity in big copper utensil mix them together for 3 or 4 hours till it turns like milk. Then put a cloth of 5 meters long into this mixture and as it wets put it out and put into this mixture again and put it out again. We do this seven times and dry in the sun light.
Then put copper utensil on a furnace covered it with wooden net. After this we keep the wet cloth on it in circular size taking twenty pieces of cloth of the same length and putting them upon on another. After this we take another copper utensil upside down just like air tied cooker. We then fire the furnace below, let it leave for the night for steam to make the cloth soft. The next morning wash the cloth thrice.
Taking these six things
Choneh Hard 500 gms
Small Hard 500 gms
Sakood 500 gms
Caster oil 100 gms
Lemon juice 50 gms
Mix all these six items together and make thirty pieces of the same size. Put ten pieces put ten into thirty liters water. Put one piece of cloths into the solution put it out and dries in the sun light. Now cloth is ready for print.
Material use in process
Glue of Acacia 6 kg
Ground nut oil 100 gms
Lime stone 9 kg
Glue of Dhawadi 600 gms
Katha 60 gms
Cows dung 2 kg
Mix these things together make it paste it calls kiriyana in our language. This process is resist for cloth.
Rust of iron 5 kg
Gur (sweet) 200 gms
Millet (Bazara) flour 250 gms
Put all these things into the twenty liters water for twenty days. After twenty days use this water for making paste in tamrind sees powder. This paste is used for black color.
A particular design named Hansso on boarder of 'AJARAKH' is printed. There is blank place; like diamond is printed with the kirchi (adesign) it is called the Hanssa ki bazaar.
Above mentioned Kirchi is resist (Dhakana) by kiriyana. This process is called Dheebari.
Alizer colour 250 gms
Allum 250 gms
Tamarind seed flour 300 gms
Make the paste of these three things by using water. Then printed the particular design using the paste in Hanssa bazaar.
Material use in process
Gum of Dhawadi 4 kg
Gum of Acacia 2 kg
Rice flour 2 kg
Jwar flour 2 kg
Saunf 200 gms
Mulathi 200 gms
Multani Mitti 20 kg
Allum 4 kg
Mix these things to make paste in water. We spread the powder of cow dung so that does not change and miss. The Ajrakh is spread in sun light for drying for 10 days.
Material used in the process
Desig indigo 4 kg
or
Indogo wat 1 kg
Gur (sweet) 200 gms
Saji Khar 500 gms
Methi Dana 200 gms
Lime stone 2 kg
Let these things leave for thirty days in water in a mat. Deep the Ajrakh one by one in indigo and dry the min the sun light.
It is a process of washing. We wash these dried cloths into the water well so that material on cloths washed away into the water. The water must come from three inches pipe and after cleaning the material it must flow down out of the tank. The clear water must come from the pipe on the other hand uncleared water must go out of it.
Alizer/Medar/Wooden of all(tree) 200 gms
Sakood 500 gms
Dhawadi flower 1.500 kg
Put 150 liter water in a copper pot on a furnace. Boil it up to 90 degree c and put all above mentioned things into the boiling water. After this put the cloth into this boiling one by one. Boil them for one and half (1.5) hour. Then they are taken out.
Camel dung 3 kg
Soda khar 1 kg
Sakood 250 gms
All these things are solved into 40 liters water. Then we put Ajrakh into the water one by one and take all the pieces and put all the pieces of cloths are bounded in woolen clothes and let them leave for the whole night.

Next morning the Ajrakh are washed in cleared water and dried them in the sun light. Ajrakh are ready for sale.

Note:-
My selected bed sheet piece for national award has been prepared by above mentioned process.

There is much more in the making of Ajrakh. We do that too.

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